TL;DR
Simon Kearns, a professional mountaineer, broke the unsupported, on-foot record for Mount Rainier after his skis broke, shifting his focus to running. He completed the route in 3h 43m 52s, beating the previous record by over 30 minutes. The event highlights his resilience and mountaineering skill.
Simon Kearns, a 25-year-old mountaineer and guide, achieved a new unsupported, on-foot fastest known time (FKT) on Mount Rainier on May 9, 2026, after his initial plan to set a ski record was thwarted by a broken ski. His story highlights the importance of resilience in mountaineering. This achievement significantly surpasses the previous record, underscoring Kearns’s resilience and mountaineering expertise.
Kearns completed the 14.5-mile round-trip to Mount Rainier’s summit and back in 3 hours, 43 minutes, and 52 seconds, covering roughly 9,000 feet of vertical gain. This achievement underscores the significance of endurance and preparation in mountaineering. The previous unsupported record, held by Alex King since 2021, was 4 hours, 14 minutes, and 13 seconds. Originally, Kearns aimed to set a ski record on Mount Rainier but had to pivot after snapping his skis a week before the attempt, due to a dry winter and lack of snow conditions.
He then shifted to running, carrying only lightweight gear, microspikes, thermal layers, and safety equipment. The route, mostly snow-covered and requiring glacier travel, starts at Paradise parking lot, ascending the Muir Snowfield, Camp Muir, Cathedral Gap, and the summit crater. Kearns is a guide for Rainier Mountaineering Inc. (RMI) and has previously set FKTs on other prominent mountains, including Mount Hood, Mount Massive, and Mont Blanc.
Why It Matters
This record highlights the adaptability and endurance of professional mountaineers, especially guides, who frequently attempt speed records on iconic peaks. Kearns’s achievement emphasizes the importance of resilience in mountaineering, demonstrating how setbacks like equipment failure can lead to alternative routes to success. It also underscores the ongoing pursuit of FKTs as a measure of athletic and mountaineering excellence.
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Background
Speed records on Mount Rainier have a long history, with the first documented attempt by Lou and Jim Whittacker and John Day in 1959, clocking 7 hours, 20 minutes. Mount Rainier’s changing conditions are a concern for climbers and researchers alike. Modern FKTs are often set by guides and experienced climbers familiar with the mountain’s conditions. Kearns’s previous FKTs include Mount Hood, Mount Massive, and Mont Blanc, reflecting his consistent focus on mountain speed records. His recent success on Rainier adds to a legacy of mountaineering achievements, particularly among guides affiliated with RMI.
“Getting down and knowing that I was finally done, I was really happy, and realized I could finally rest. I was definitely crying—disbelief that it had gone so well. I didn’t think I would beat the record by so much.”
— Simon Kearns
“I put a lot into this record training for it, and failed a couple of times. Getting down and knowing that I was finally done, I was really happy, and realized I could finally rest.”
— Kearns
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What Remains Unclear
Details about the specific conditions during Kearns’s attempt, such as weather and snowpack, are still emerging. It is not yet clear whether he plans to attempt other FKTs or pursue further records on different mountains in the near future.
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What’s Next
Kearns plans to continue guiding professionally but remains interested in racing and setting FKTs on other peaks, including Long’s Peak in Colorado. Future attempts are likely, pending conditions and personal schedule. Learn more about the ongoing research and observations related to Mount Rainier.
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Key Questions
How did Kearns manage to beat the previous record by such a large margin?
Kearns’s familiarity with the route, peak conditions, and his extensive training contributed to his success. His ability to adapt from skiing to running after equipment failure was crucial.
Was this a solo effort, and how was safety managed?
Kearns’s attempt was unsupported, meaning he carried all his gear without outside assistance. Safety equipment like microspikes, thermal layers, and a crevasse rescue kit were used, and he was experienced in glacier travel.
Will Kearns attempt other records or FKTs soon?
He has expressed interest in setting FKTs on other mountains, such as Long’s Peak, and plans to continue racing and guiding as his schedule allows.
Why did Kearns shift from skiing to running for this attempt?
A broken ski a week before the attempt, combined with dry winter conditions, made skiing impossible, prompting him to pivot to running as a viable alternative.
Source: Outside
